ON THE ROAD WITH DAN - ALASKA: THE UNLIKELIEST MEAL

How do I begin to set this scene...after 9 days of astonishing beauty, wildness, effort, camaraderie and ultimately success in the incomparable St. Elias Mountains of Alaska, Jamie, Eli and I were plucked out of the wilderness by an ever reliable DeHavelind Beaver (built circa. 1950), and its equally reliable pilot Kelly (of Wrangell Mountain Air). We were plucked not to any place that threatens such a soul satisfying experience, but to one of the world's great way stations, or transitions between true wilderness and human society, McCarthy AK. McCarthy lies at the end of its eponymous road, 75 miles of dirt, the only road into the 13,000,000 acre Wrangell St. Elias National Park (for perspective, 25% larger than Switzerland). With 2 dusty streets, incredible mountain vistas, and about 30 residents who actually reside here all year long it's hard to imagine as the venue for one of the great wine and food experience I've had - but experiences are all the more special for their implausibility.

After 9 days of mountaineering food, the last two of which entailed dwindling stocks and an uncertain end date, a six course winemaker dinner sounded pretty appealing even if I had to be the entertainment. We landed on the McCarthy gravel field at about 3:00, with a dinner start time of about (everything regarding time in McCarthy is soft) 6:00. After several beers for rehydration and mental preparation on the deck of The McCarthy Lodge, and of course a stop at The Potato for a 2,000 calorie snack, we cleaned up and went to the Lodge for dinner. This place is special in so many ways - a flawlessly restored lodge built during the early 1900's local mining boom; dark woods, old pictures from those times, perfectly spotless and warmly inviting.

Any gathering is so much more about the people gathered than anything else. The McCarthy group defined the word characters - not to mention that a gourmet dinner where the best dressed of the guests wears fairly clean jeans is definitely to my tastes. There was Neil, proprietor of the Lodge and the Ma Johnson Hotel across the street - a force in town with his non-stop energy, and attention to quality and detail so evident in everything he does. He, of course, never sat down. Neil says he relaxes in the long Alaskan winter, and I plan to visit then to verify this unlikely claim. Neil's partner Don and his wife Marylin were in attendance. He's a PhD chemist, an oil guy who lives mostly in Moscow now, and is an endless reserve of stories. Then there's the wonderful Rebecca, with always a sparkle in her eyes; the hard working, fun loving McCarthy full timer who owns The Potato, but is also an invaluable help to Neil at the Lodge. Gary, another hotshot bush pilot, who owns McCarthy Air, was also in attendance.

Of course our mountain guide Eli was there - an entire story himself (not to mention an endless resource of stories) - a person of unbelievable competence who doesn't need to flaunt it until the real need is there. Eli was most impressed by two traits of the Goldfield boys - our raw stamina and our impressive inability to get out in the mornings. Mike, an iconic Alaskan horse wrangler was along - wiry, with long braids, a scruffy beard and a grand friendly demeanor. There was the attorney, whose family had homesteaded in the area 100 years ago - a big, strong guy with a shock of white hair, wearing all black; with a great knowledge of wine and a welcoming interest in everything. And can't forget our two stage crew friends and their ladies - big, burly, warm and inviting - pretty much a reflection of the place. When I'll think of McCarthy in the future, I'll think of real people - sociable, patient, deliberate and interested.

The dinner itself was as finely tuned as any I've attended, and clearly more fun than most with its combination of a casual open atmosphere and truly serous cuisine. Executive Chef Ian Gyori was joined by Sous Chef Josh Slaughter for the event. Josh is spending some time with Neil up here in Alaska after leaving his gig at Bouchon in Napa. He was quite clear that he had no intentions of spending a winter (the wuss), but I have no doubt that the rest of the crew integrate his influence into their already accomplished talents. I'll attempt to describe the actual meal and pairings, though the experience was so much more than just the courses, and the execution of both the food and the service was above any mere description. I couldn't begin to describe the intricacies of the sauces, as my notes were written in the next day; my mind in a bit of a haze after the dinner and the ensuing long Alaskan night of drinking with new friends.

- The first course was a rabbit confit with frisee and fresh herb vin (herbs grown in the restaurant's greenhouse) with the 2006 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay - a phenomenal pairing. The touch of lemon sage and olive oil in the salad really brought out the sweet citrus in the chardonnay.

- Second came a beautiful piece of black cod on top of wild mushroom Asian style dumplings in a dashi consume sauce, and paired with the 2007 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir. The fish was perfectly done, flakey, moist and delicious, and the sauce made the transition to the pinot seamless.

- Next was the coup de gras for the salmon freaks among us. The Copper River drains the Wrangell and the St. Elias mountains, and many consider it the greatest salmon river in the world. Paired with our 2006 Rued Vineyard Chardonnay, it was probably the best piece of salmon I've ever had; a Copper River Red fillet served with crispy skin up, raw in the middle with a delicate mustard/tarragon sauce and served over fresh local greens (you gotta love a place where the kale is in season in July). The fish was the color of a deep orange fireplace brick; eating it just made you feel like you were doing something great for yourself. The combination of flavors with the Rued Chardonnay was as good as it gets.

- For Jamie, Eli and I, our 9 days on the glaciers of the St. Elias was perfect preparation to savor this continuing cavalcade of great food. Now, with rare duck breast served on gnocchi in a Cambazola cream sauce, our needed calories were starting to roll in. My depleted body just craved the gnocchi, and the 2006 Devil's Gulch Pinot was perfect refreshment between bites.

- The last savory course was a perfectly rare elk chop served on gramalata barley risotto and seasoned with a touch of truffle salt. The risotto was truly beautiful, perfect tooth, and maybe a touch of lemon in the sauce. Watching my well worked 16 year old boy scarf a practically raw (but tender and just how it should be to my taste) elk chop was hugely entertaining. The 2004 Cherry ridge Syrah did a great job of balancing the dense, lean meat.

- And lastly, the trio of desserts, prepared by aspiring chef Jeff Kowalski paired with our "Happy Ending" fortified wine - and happy ending is an apt descriptor for the entire course and pairing. The combination of Guanash goat cheese crema, almond brittle and a till chocolate cookie almost deconstructed the flavor components of our would be port. Spectacular finish - now off to the bar for the rest of the night.

So many aspects of that day and evening will stand out for me. The dinner itself was extraordinarily well thought out and precisely executed, the company so enjoyable, the venue so out of time and place from the rest of the world. The evening went on in the bar - every time we started to head out someone would offer us another drink and we'd just start talking. The experience was so fine that I didn't want to let go of it - and on many levels clearly haven't.

Dan