What's the Difference
Between Green Valley and Russian River Valley?
As John's been making his way out in the market, one of the questions
he gets most frequently is where exactly is Green Valley, and what's
the difference between Green Valley and Russian River Valley. Good questions,
so we thought we'd answer them here.
Green Valley lies in the southwest corner of the Russian River Valley,
bounded by the towns of Sebastopol, Forestvile and Occidental. It is
one of the smallest appellations, and also one of the few that is actually
geographically distinct and climatologically unique. The Green Valley
AVA was officially known as Green Valley-Sonoma County when it was begun
in 1983. In 2007, the name was changed to Green Valley of Russian River
Valley to better reflect its place in the world, as it is completely
encompassed within the Russian River Valley AVA.

Fog is the defining feature of Green Valley. GIS-GPS computerized mapping
of fog patterns shows that the most significant fog influx originates
at the Petaluma Wind Gap as opposed to the Russian River and that, as
a result of its proximity to the Petaluma Gap, Green Valley typically
experiences cooler morning temperatures for a longer period of time
than the northern parts of the Russian River Valley. It is the first
point of incursion and the last place where the fog burns off, making
it the coolest part of the Russian River Valley.
The combination of fog and the predominant Gold Ridge soil yield a remarkably
consistent taste profile in Green Valley wines: the chardonnays are
focused and bright, with great structure and complexity, lively lemon-lime-tangerine
flavors and a beautiful core of minerality. Pinots are expressive, fruit
forwardfrom clear bright cherry and cranberry to blueberry and
blackberryand have a distinguishing underlying earthiness, great
acidity and soft tannins.
Warren Dutton was the first to plant chardonnay in Green Valley in the
1960s, and the Duttons today are the largest grower in the appellation.
Of their approximately 1,100 acres of vineyards, 85% are in Green Valley.
As you may have noticed, our Rued Vineyard Chardonnay and Sanchietti
Vineyard Pinot Noir are both now labeled Green Valley of Russian River
Valley. Previously, we had labeled these wines with Russian River Valley.
In order to point out their distinct locations and flavors, we made
the change with the 2007 vintage, when the appellation name change took
place.
The Latest Reviews
Wine Enthusiast's December 15 issue just came out with
these wonderful reviews:
2008 Rued Vineyard Chardonnay
"This vineyard has proven itself for so many years that it's practically
a guarantee of greatness. This 2008 is a real stunner. It's so rich
and exotic, so balanced and dry, so clean. Dazzles with pear, pineapple,
lychee, roasted hazelnut, crème brulee, buttered toast, honey and
spice flavors, wrapped into a creamy smooth mouthfeel. Brilliant and
compelling...96."
2008 Freestone Hill Pinot Noir
"Extraordinary for how drinkable it is right now, and for how it will
evolve. Shows the crisp acidity and minerality of this cool-climate
vineyard, with rich flavors of raspberries, cherry liqueur, cola,
exotic spices, vanilla, buttered cinnamon toast and smoky sandalwood.
Yet the tannic integrity should help it change in fascinating ways
over the next six years...95."
2008 Sanchietti Vineyard Pinot Noir
"Notable for its fine minerality and acidity and distinguished mouthfeel…offers
intricate raspberry, sour cherry candy, blueberry, cola and sandalwood
flavors...92."
2008 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay
"Beautiful and likable for its dryness, crisp minerality, and the sleek,
clean mouthfeel. The fruit suggests oak-inspired pears, oranges and
citrons. This elegant quaff gets better as it warms in the glass...92."
To read more reviews, visit
our website.
We have shelf
talkers and sell sheets available on our website that you
can download and print out.
Wine Terminology
From Pinot Forum materials.
Oidium: The French name for powdery
mildew.
Organic grape growing: Method
of grape growing in response to chemical and petrochemical use in the
vineyard. Mandates the use of only natural or approved fertilizers,
pesticides, herbicides and fungicides.
Oxidation: The reaction of various
components in wine with oxygen. Can cause wine to turn brown and take
on flat, musty flavors.
pH: A measure of the relative
acidity or alkalinity in a solution.
Phenolics: Tannins (responsible
for astringency and bitterness) and anthocyanins (pigments). Phenolics
are present in the skins, seeds, and stems of the grapes.
Phomopsis: Vine disease most common
where there is heavy rainfall during the pruning season.
Phylloxera: A burrowing plant louse of the Aphididae family that
is one of the most serious vineyard pests.
Pierce's disease: A bacterial (Xylella fastidosa) disease affecting
grapevines, spread by small insects called sharpshooters.
Pigeage: The French term for punchdown.
Pinot: A family of noble grape varieties. Red varieties include
Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier; white varieties include Pinot Blanc and
Pinot Gris.
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Happy Holidays from Your Friends
at Dutton-Goldfield!
We wish you a joyous holiday
season and a New Year of peace and happiness!
The Crew at DG
Harvest 2010: If It Was Easy, Everybody Would Do
It
Early on in my career, the great winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff told
me that part of what he loved in our craft is that no two seasons are
ever the same. I’ve certainly never seen one like 2010. Record cold
- record heat - record rain. As we say at Dutton-Goldfield, “Why choose?”.
The rainy spring which meant the end of a 3-year drought was quite welcome,
and brought with it late budbreak and slow early growth for the vines.
We had periodic rain into June, and since wet ground is cold ground,
growth continued slow and bloom came late. When bloom did come, mostly
in early June, the weather was warm and sunny and the vines grew like
the weeds they are. Pollination can be spotty during fast growth spurts,
so set was low to moderate in most blocks. One viticultural trick the
Dutton’s use in this situation is to leave extra wood on a vine until
after set to vent the vigor and produce a better set. This worked excellently,
particularly in the chard blocks.

This whole situation is a happy one for coastal Pinot and old vine Chardonnay
winemakers. I like late years, as this pushes ripening back to the shorter
days of late September/early October so that early heat spikes don’t
force us to harvest because of high sugar before the flavor and tannins
are ripe. The fruit ends up with great acidity and ripeness at the same
time, not to mention we get a break between August bottling and the
beginning of harvest. It’s amusing when winemakers brag about how cold
their appellation is, then complain when it actually is.
But this year was extreme. Midsummer was incessantly cold and foggy
and we saw almost no veraison as August rolled along. But wait. An unprecedented
heat spell hit August 23, causing sunburn and shrivel in highly exposed
berries. In cold seasons, the vines don’t get used to pumping a lot
of water to the fruit, so the sudden spike took its toll. The issue
is not so much quality as quantity, as the fruit was not nearly ripe
so affected clusters were dropped, or not picked later. As always, the
dry farmed older vines were the least affected, due to their deep roots
and slightly shading trellising.
The cold came back with a vengeance—the high temperature in Graton was
100 on August 25 and 73 on the 26th! Things got more usual for a little
while before heat ruled again starting the 25th of September and lasted
through the 29th. 104 degrees here on September 28—you gotta be kidding!

This started the wave of Pinot, with Marty’s 667 coming in on 9/27 (Garry
and Dan are pictured with it, above), followed closely by Freestone,
Galante and the rest of Marty’s on the 30th—a huge day for us. Some
of the fruit looked a bit worse for wear and sorting was painstaking,
but it tasted great, as does the wine in barrel. Think Clint Eastwood
in “Unforgiven”, a bit weathered and scraggly, but complex, nuanced
and burly. The Freestone is super spicy, deep, balanced but powerful.
All of the Marty’s lots have concentrated berry fruit and super deep
color, Silva is broad cherry and the McDougall (harvested 10/9) is its
usual edgy, mineral driven self. Pinot ended with Devil’s on October
20-21 (2 days to pick 6 tons, way to go Mark). The real Pinot story
is the yields: Devil’s 0.9 tons an acre, Freestone 1.2, average just
under 2. Between the low set, thinning after the first heat and sorting
before crushing, there won’t be much, but it is wonderful and full of
personality.
As always, the chards were better behaved, the Rued was as perfect as
I've seen it (23.5 brix, 3.35 pH) as was the Walker Wente. The valley
bottom fruit of Mill Station and JJJS has the flavor and acid balance
we love. It will be a great year for our focused, long aging style of
Chard.
Morelli Zin was another project, and is still in the fermenter on 11/9
as I write this, but it has the super bright raspberry and great acidity
we love in it. It should be pressed tomorrow. The Syrah, alas, was the
only fatal victim. With 9 inches of rain (I kid you not) on that ridge
the weekend of October 23/24, any chance of final ripening was pretty
much quashed. It’s still hanging and disintegrating out there, a humbling
reminder that you can’t win them all.
In the end, our job is to reflect the personality of our place and the
seasons of it, and we’re thrilled with how we did so in 2010... Now
can we sleep?
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