Introducing
our new addition: 2004 Russian River Valley Zinfandel
With
the popularity of our Morelli Lane Vineyard Zinfandel, and the extremely
limited amount of wine those old vines are able to provide us each year,
Dan and Steve went out in search for other great zin vineyards. They
found two wonderful sites they truly appreciate the opportunity to work
with.
Our Russian
River Valley Zinfandel combines the Feeney Ranch, a renowned old vine
vineyard (Williams Selyem and Carlisle have made wine from it) right
in the heart of the Russian River appellation, with the Alper vineyard,
perched atop Stoetz Ridge on the western edge of the appellation, right
next to our Morelli Lane plot. The old Feeney vines are always picked
late in the season and contribute bright raspberry fruit, fresh acidity,
and an elegance that only old vines can provide. Alper shows the cherry
and bramble character, along with the lushness that seems endemic to
the red wines from Stoetz Ridge. Together, they offer us a wine with
bright berry fruit, moderate alcohol, and a generous structure which
is exceptional in the varietal.
At Dutton-Goldfield,
we vinify our zins much like we do the pinots, in order to bring out
zinfandel's wonderful fruit characters, while maintaining lushness and
elegance in the wine. We hand sort the fruit prior to destemming, and
cold soak for 7 days, fermenting in small open top fermenters, with
gentle punchdowns. Our zin is aged only in French oak chosen to showcase
the sweet fruit and candied spice overtones. The wine is racked once
in early spring to marry the individual barrel contributions, and to
help clarify it for unfiltered bottling. It is bottled in the late summer
after spending approximately 10 months in wood.
The warm
harvest of 2004 was perfect for zinfandel, especially the old vines
of Feeney Ranch. In this blend, the vintage gave us a great lushness
along with the thick cherry and berry fruit, while still maintaining
the focus and structure that Dutton-Goldfield prefers in our wines.
This easy to enjoy wine pairs well with almost anythingfrom any
home made pasta dish and a wide variety of cheeses to roasted fowl,
barbecued ribs and pot roast.
Pinot
Terminology
From Russian River Valley Pinot Forum educational
materials. The 2005 event was our best yet; if you'd like to be added
to the invitation list for the 2006 event, contact Valerie
at Dutton-Goldfield.
Oïdium:
The French name for powdery mildew.
Organic
grape growing: Method of grape growing gaining
popularity over the past two decades in response to chemical and petrochemical
use in the vineyard. Mandates the use of only natural or approved fertilizers,
pesticides, herbicides and fungicides.
Oxidation:
The reaction of various components in wine with oxygen. Can cause wine
to turn brown and take on flat, musty flavors.
pH:
A measure of the relative acidity or alkalinity in a solution.
Phenolics:
Tannins (responsible for astringency and bitterness) and anthocyanins
(pigments). Phenolics are present in the skins, seeds, and stems of
the grapes.
Phomopsis:
Vine disease most common where there is heavy rainfall during the pruning
season.
Phylloxera:
A burrowing plant louse of the Aphididae family that is one of the most
serious vineyard parasites.
Pierce's
disease:
A bacterial (Xylella fastidosa) disease affecting grapevines,
spread by small insects called glassy-winged sharpshooters.
Pigeage:
The french term for punchdown.
Pinot:
A family of noble grape varieties. Red varieties include Pinot Noir
and Pinot Meunier; white varieties include Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.
Polymerization:
Aggregation of smaller molecules of tannins and anthocyanins into larger
particles, due in wine to heat or age. Polymerization provides a smoother
feel to a wine and can lead to color changes and a deposit of sediment.
Pomace:
Grape skins after pressing.
Powdery
Mildew:
Serious fungal disease, caused by the organism Unicinula spiralis,
is native to America, east of the Rockies. The most serious, chronic
disease in west coast vineyards.
Press
wine:
Wine or juice extracted from skins through the process of using a press.
Pruning:
The annual process of cutting back the grapevine during the dormant
season.
Pumpover:
Process of mixing the skins with the must in red wines by using a pump
to circulate the must over the cap.
Punchdown:
Traditional Burgundian technique of physically pushing the floating
skins down into the juice with a ram or plunger device.
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In
the Vineyards: Pruning
While
the vines are sleeping in the winter, it's time to prune. Pruning focuses
the growth of the vine where you want it, and determines how much fruit
a vine will have. Each vineyard is different, with the variety of grape,
location, fertility of the soil and climate all playing a role in the
decision on how to best prune.
For
pinot noir, Dutton Ranch aims for 2.5 to 4 tons per acre, depending
on the vineyard. For 4 tons, the math is 2 bunches per bud and 20 buds
per vine for a total of 40 bunches. It takes about 5 bunches to equal
a pound, so that gives you 8 pounds per vine. Multiply that by 1,089
vines per acre and you come up with 4 tons per acre.
This
assumes all goes according to plan, and each bud does its job of producing
2 bunches, and each of those bunches is full of beautiful, plump, juicy
grapes. Of course, this almost never happens, as weather during bloom
in May and June affects the set and the ultimate harvest. Not only does
it have a direct impact on that year's harvest, it also dictates the
following year's crop, since the buds are actually deciding how many
bunches and shoots they'll put out the following year at this time as
well.
The
main types of pruning done in our vineyards are cane, cordon and head
pruning. Cane pruning is used in the cooler areas, as it helps to set
a better crop in these sites. At pruning time, up to 4 new canes from
the previous year are trained onto the wires out to each side of the
trunk (2 per side, ideally), to a point midway to the next vine. Each
of these canes will have 8 to 10 buds. This is a much more time-consuming
pruning process, as you need to make a decision vine by vine on the
best canes to keep to create the right shape and fruitfulness.
With
cordon pruning, the old wood remains trained on the wires, and the spurs
on the arms of the vine are the fruiting wood. The previous year's spur
will have produced 2 canes: typically, the lowest of these 2 canes will
be used, and pruned down to the lowest 2 buds on it; the higher cane
will be cut down below its lowest bud. In this way, a new spur (with
2 buds and 2 bunches per bud) is created each year. Head pruning is
basically the same as cordon, but rather than being trained on wires
out to the side of the trunk, the canes grow straight up in a more casual
form.
Whatever
method is used, with all pruning, it's all about balance: deciding just
the right amount of fruit each vine and vineyard can comfortably ripen
to perfection.
Wine
Releases
The
first four of our 2004 vintage wines have been released (the single
vineyards are bottling this week and will be out in late summer):
2004
Dutton Ranch Chardonnay - A blend of five of our favorite
Dutton Ranch vineyards in the Green Valley-Russian River Valley appellation.
The core of citrus is overlaid by pear and stone fruits, and the nose
displays spice and poppy seed overtones. The wine is particularly lush,
while still displaying the focused lime and tangerine notes that we
expect from Dutton Ranch Chardonnay. 2,565 cases.
2004
Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir - The characters of our Russian River
Valley neighborhood are captured in this blend of four Dutton Ranch
pinot sites. The nose greets you with lilacs, followed by black cherry,
dark chocolate and a streak of blueberry. In the mouth, the black cherry
dominates the core of sweetness, complemented by black tea, raspberry
and fine-grained tannins. 2,490 cases.
2004
Morelli Lane Vineyard Zinfandel
- Raspberries, blueberries and cream jump out of the glass as you pour
the wine. With time in the glass, the deep black cherry, bramble and
floral notes emerge. In the mouth it offers plush berry fruit and a
touch of bramble and bittersweet chocolate. Its bright fruit carries
through to the finish, thanks to the moderate alcohol and lively acidity.
206 cases.
2004
Russian River Valley Zinfandel - In
the nose, the wine leads with aromas of cherry cobbler and candied cranberries,
with a touch of roasted nuts and vanilla as overtones. The mouth follows
with bright cherry and berry fruit, notes of cocoa and allspice, and
a wonderful combination of opulence, firmness of structure, and moderate
alcohol that makes it a great food pairing wine. 477 cases.
We
were thrilled to be named
Regional Winery of the Year
in the Wine & Spirits Top 100
Winter 2005 issue
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